I got an ask, and I thought I’d share how I did it. This is by no means “the right” way to do it, it’s just what worked for me. :D
I modified the KwikSew 3052 Leotard pattern, and used a swimsuit I had to give myself an idea of what the bottom would look like for the top…
Folks welcomed the hand reference I posted, so here’s some foot reference.
As an artist you’ll draw A LOT of feet, especially feet that REST ON THE GROUND. Don’t be one of those artists who hides feet behind grass or mist all the time. Print these out and draw ‘em.
I included the knees because you’ll need to know how feet connect with legs; draw ‘em up to the knee.
don’t worry, your english turned out fine, dude.
as a foreword of warning,
it is best that you don’t use this post as a standalone tutorial,
instead, try to use it as a study aid to help you make sense of real-life references.
(same applies for any decent “art tutorial” out there, really. :p)
bolded numbers correspond to the numbers on this post’s pictures.
OH MY GOD THANK YOU. I’ve been wondering about this shit when I paint.
WHERE ARTISTS AND COMMISSIONERS ARE BROUGHT TOGETHER!
"Got a piece you need done, but aren’t sure where to turn? The Commissioners Corner is your one-stop spot for getting your commission needs met, with thousands of artists waiting on standby!"
- Get your perfect piece done fast and by skilled artists!
- Choose between several offers to get exactly what you want.
- Fast and professional with a simple to use system that provides immediate response.
- We do everything and anything that can be made! Not just art!
So come on down and getting your commission done!
My bootcover tutorial is up! I’m pretty new to Youtube, so please check it out and share if you find it helpful. :)
Mega pleased because I’ve landed on a really nice dyeing technique for making vinyl look like leather. I love working in real leather where I can, but sometimes the bank says no. For Fili’s vest, I got a bomber vinyl off eBay and wasn’t sold on the color, and the texture was meh (because hey, it was vinyl). I wasn’t sure how I could dye it, since vinyl is basically a plastic. Then I thought about my adventures in wig dyeing. Wig fibers (some) are also basically a plastic, and the trick to dyeing them is to mix your color with something that will evaporate and leave the pigment behind.
Anyways, long story short. I had a water-based leather dye on hand, so using a sponge, I scrubbed it into the vinyl till it was good and wet and then let it air dry. After that I wiped it down thoroughly and scoured it with the rough side of my sponge to rough it up a bit. Repeated the scrubbing and wiping in the cracks and seams with some black paint for some weathering. And presto! I don’t know how well the pictures show it, but the difference is insane. Not just in the color, but in the mottled texture that is much more believable.
So. Just a tip for everyone despairing the stubbornness of vinyl and the priceyness of leather.
Casting clear gems with EpoxACast
Short, written tutorial [video has more information, this is just a little summary!]:
- Chavant NSP Medium
- Oomoo 30
- Ease Release 200
- EpoxACast 690 Clear
- hotglue gun
ATTENTION!! Your health and safety should always come first! Please read the safety instructions that come with the materials and follow them!
- The basic shape of the gem is cut from clay.
- The facets are cut into it and smoothened with water
- The silicone is being mixed. Attention! Please follow the safety instructions for working with silicone! Mixing ratio is 1:1 and you’re done mixing once there are no pink or blue stains in the silicone.
- Only when all air bubbles have vanished (yet before pot life expires), the silicone is poured in a thin stream from the deepest point of the moldbox.
- After 6 hrs the silicone has cured. Before mixing and pouring the resin, I used a release agent. When working with resin, you have to follow the safety instructions and protect your skin, eyes and respiratory system by wearing the necessary protection and working in a well ventilated area! Mixing ratio is 100 parts of epoxy to 30 parts of hardener. Use a kitchen scale to measure, stir carefully so there will be no bubbles, pour carefully.
- After 24 hours the epoxy is cured and hard. You can now demold it.
- Pro-tip: Put mirrorfoil behind it for le shine!
You can find aditional information about the materials and possibilities this technique gives you in my facebook-gallery on this topic!
Okay, this is the last batch of academic stuff I’ll post for a while. The only way to force a level up is to grind.
For those who’ve never heard of it, the best anatomy book I’ve ever found (that many of these muscle drawings are crudely copied from) is Strength Training Anatomy
The tutorial of how I achieve watercolor effect in Sai! :) I highly recommend using real watercolor paintings (your own or ones found on the internet) as reference.
And here you can find a few useful links:
- You can download the Sai file of this picture here: link
- Video process of painting another picture: link
- The old watercolor tutorial: link
- Sai brushes (none of them is made by me) link + file you need to open them in Sai: link
- Awesome watercolor brushes made by Kyle T Webster: link
Here’s the finished painting: link
So you wanna be an animal..or partially an animal..fine, you just want ears because they’re super cute and you’re over the faun thing. I’ve got your back. Of course, there are tons of different ears out there and there are simpler ways to do this, but…let’s take our ears…
I recently made an order with Catprint as I was looking for a cheaper and nicer alternative to getting prints done at office depot.
I included the order (minus my address, of course) so you can see how much I paid, the stock, and the size.
They actually arrived a day before schedule (they were scheduled for monday but I got them friday). Here you can see they were super nicely packaged with biodegradable peanuts (and I’m re purposing the box to put all my prints in) and double shrink-wrapped to keep the prints from getting damaged. The quality is super nice and the price is fantastic! I also got them less than 10 days from when I ordered (though I did pay for the one shipping level above the cheapest).
Would I recommend catprint? Absolutely. Please, give them your business! the quality is fantastic, the user interface on their site is easy and makes setting up your prints a breeze, and the price is just absolutely unbeatable.
Here’s a great site I had heard about and just had the opportunity to try. I completely recommend them.